Of all the holidays, Christmas, as far as I’m concerned, is the most fun.
There’s cake, party games and you eat a three-course meal while telling jokes and wearing kooky hats – what could beat that?
Well, for one thing, roller skates.
That’s right, just when you thought Christmas could not get any merrier, the lovely people of Venezuela have gone and upped the ante with a weird and wonderful Christmas tradition that makes building snowmen look positively dull.
Las patinatas, which translates to “the skating,” dates back to the 1950s and involves people roller skating all night and then making their way to church for a 5am or 6am Mass from 16 to 24 December.
But in recent years, las patinatas have changed. Since around 2010, political turmoil and economic struggles in Venezuela have taken a toll on daily life, and now the tradition is at risk of fading out.
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Why do people roller skate to Christmas mass in Venezuela?
Venezuelans are known for their love of fireworks and Christmas is no exception – residents awake to the sound of firecrackers exploding in the street, adding to the peel of church bells.
Most roads are closed overnight, people wear festive clothing, and lots of treats and hot chocolate/coffee are available. Many children would receive roller skates, roller blades, and skateboards as gifts to take part.
And this is how roller skating to Christmas mass started – it became so popular that the government took to closing streets until 8am so that families could skate together in safety.
For locals in the capital of Caracas, it is customary to strap on your roller skates and glide to Christmas mass.
As legend has it, children go to bed with a piece of string tied around their toe and the other end dangling out of the window.
As skaters roll past, they give the string a tug and children know that it’s time to, well, get their skates on.
In some areas, food stalls sell traditional Christmas fare (more on that later) but this has declined in recent years due to safety concerns.
When mass is finished, families convene in the street and at each others’ houses to share food, play music and dance.
It’s not quite roasting chestnuts around an open fire but has all the trappings of the Christmas we know and love: family, togetherness, food and fun.
How Venezuela’s history shaped roller skating at Christmas
It isn’t clear precisely how or why this unusual tradition started but sources suggest it is an alternative to sledding – December temperatures in the southern hemisphere can reach into the high thirties.
The contrast between the carefree fun of roller skating and the solemnity of mass is reflected in Venezuela’s unique demographic that is liberal in name but not always in practice.
Can I travel to Venezuela?
As of December 2024, the UK government advises against travelling to Venezuela due to its high murder rate, frequent violent crime, and disruptions in essential services, like healthcare.
It is considered one of the most dangerous countries for travellers. The Foreign Office also warns about power outages, food shortages, and limited support for detained foreigners
Initially, the influence of Amerindian and Spanish settlers was combined with African customs, which were brought to the country as a result of the slave trade.
Later, the arrival of Italian, Portuguese and German migrants had an impact on everything from language and culture to food and music.
Geographically, Venezuela also benefits from its neighbours: it is bordered by Colombia, Brazil and Guyana, as well as the Caribbean Sea, which brings associated Caribbean influences to its shores.
It is this diverse blend that gives Venezuela its distinctive identity – never is this more evident than at Christmas.
Somewhere in this melting pot are the roots of festive skating.
How does Venezuela’s political climate affect the Christmas tradition?
Now the custom is at risk due to Venezuela’s volatile political climate.
This is down to President Nicolás Maduro, who came back into power in July 2024 after a government-controlled electoral authority announced his victory, making this his third consecutive term.
The election led to protests as citizens demanded change after 25 years of socialist rule, during which key institutions have been weakened and the president’s power has grown.
In September 2024, Maduro announced that Christmas celebrations would start two months earlier than usual, in October. Many critics considered this an attempt to distract from the ongoing political crisis in the country.
Economic woes caused by high levels of inflation also make life tough for much of Venezuela’s population.
Due to these insecurities and protests, las patinatas are slowly fading away and becoming a bittersweet memory for Venezuelans.
Brandon Jimenez, 30, who has moved to London from Caracas, recalls that the tradition was once a “huge festival” where people would gather in the streets, roller skate, and party until the morning mass, but acknowledges that it has “died down now”.
“It’s not massive anymore because it’s not safe to be on the street in Venezuela these days,” he explained.
“Nowadays, people celebrate in their buildings with neighbours, family and friends until midnight, and then go back inside to stay safe.”
He believes there needs to be “a big change in Venezuela” for the tradition to return to its former glory.
How do the Venezuelans celebrate Christmas?
The festive mood starts in early December with gaitas, a type of folk music with African and Indigenous influences originally from the Zulia state, in the northwest of the country.
Christmas officially begins on 16 December with the first of nine special early morning Christmas masses called misa de aguinaldo, which run until 24 December.
Families display pesebres, specially crafted, large-scale and elaborate depictions of the Nativity story.
North American influences have led to a growing trend for Christmas lights and artificial trees – real trees have to be imported, which makes them costly.
On Christmas Eve, neighbours gather in the streets to listen to music, share food and visit each others’ houses, often until late.
After a special church service, families head home to enjoy a special festive dinner where the star attraction are the hallacas: traditional meat pies with a cornmeal crust, filled with a mixture containing (among other things) meat, nuts, olives, peppers and onions.
They are so labour-intensive to make that the whole family chips in and they are only reserved for this time of the year.
Three things you probably didn't know about how Venezuelans celebrate Christmas:
- Venezuelans will often repaint their houses well ahead of the festivities to represent the new year and a fresh start.
- Venezuelans don’t have a Santa Clause figure. Instead, tradition states that the baby Jesus delivers two special presents while children are asleep.
- Christmas Eve is more significant than Christmas Day in Venezuela.
Come Christmas Day, families return to church for misa de gallo (‘mass of the rooster’) – so-called for its very early 5am start.
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The festive period officially comes to an end on 6 January with the celebration of the reyes magos (the three wise men who visit Mary and the baby Jesus) when children are given another round of presents and sweets – and roller skates are hung up for another year.
It is hard to imagine us Brits strapping on the skates and braving the icy, December roads, but in a country where Christmas falls in 30C heat, nothing sounds more fun.
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