A Neopolitan once told me they look death in the eye every day.
They were, of course, referring to Mount Vesuvius, the ancient, still active volcano that looms ominously over the charming yet historically troubled Italian city of Naples.
Before my first visit in 2022, I had no wish to visit the capital of Campania. Often described as dark and dirty, I’d heard stories of its association with the Mafia, high crime rates, and a notorious toxic waste problem that’s seen the city nicknamed the ‘Triangle of Death.’ Not the most enticing qualities for tourists.
But while some of these tales proved to be partially true, I was wrong to judge. For every mound of rubbish, an exquisite piece of architecture overshadows it. This city is raw, high-octane and fizzing with life — bursting with energy from its gritty laneways to perpetually fired-up pizza ovens. Naples was recently crowned the world’s best city for food, with good reason.
Getting to Naples and best time to visit
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Like the rest of Italy, Naples is easy to reach. Low-cost airlines fly direct from London’s Gatwick and Luton airports, with return fares on easyJet from €81 (£67); Wizz Air from €103 (£85).
Despite sizzling temperatures, Naples has traditionally lured travellers in the hot summer months when locals flee to cooler climes. Peak season runs from June through August, but low season – from November to March – is a more rewarding time to visit.
The weather is mild, tourist touts have largely cleared out and queues for museums and monuments are as short as they’ll ever be. Even better, state museums offer free admission on the first Sunday of the month between October and March.
Shoulder season, from April to June and September to October, is perfect for the al fresco dining Italy as a whole is famous for. Street stalls overflow with local produce, from asparagus to sweet scallions and fresh leafy greens.
A vibrant labyrinth
In Naples, space is scarce. The streets are narrow, the buildings are crowded, and there are people everywhere. There is a sense that everything – down to the grimy cobblestones – is alive.
Scratch the surface and you’ll find these alleyways are home to quirky communities, each with a unique arts scene that springs to life when the sun goes down.
One of the most vibrant is the Spanish Quarter, a former no-go area once under mob rule where you’ll find Latin American restaurants with Vespas strewn out front and the city’s brilliantly garish Maradona shrine.
From €1 Aperol Spritz bars where every day is a party, it’s common to see neighbours watching football games or a movie on makeshift projectors outside graffiti-streaked homes.
Through a mazelike twist of narrow laneways is the Centro Storico, Naples historic centre where a marble veiled Christ at the Museo Cappella Sansevero is just one of the world-renowned artworks on display.
Naples’ history is rich and diverse. Greek settlements date back to the 2nd millennium BC, while the Roman influence transformed the city into a cultural hub. But perhaps its most famous piece of history – and a popular USP for tourists – is its proximity to Mount Vesuvius and the ancient city of Pompeii, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From Napoli Porta Nolana train station, the journey takes between 40 minutes to an hour. Grab tickets to the park just outside the platform, and head over. Ticket prices differ depending on what package you go for. Entry to Pompeii alone is €18 (£15), while access to Pompeii and the suburban villas is €22.00 (£18).
No day is complete without catching sunset at Lungomare, an enchanting seafront promenade where vendors sell pizza slices and granita (semi-frozen ice cream) from movable stalls.
What our readers think of Naples:
Touran Parsee: “I loved Naples because it wasn’t overly touristy like Sorrento which was where I was staying. I ended up doing two-day trips to Naples.”
Isabella P Stilley: “Seafood, pizza, and sfogliatelle are a must when visiting Naples.”
Marta Venturini: “Naples is raw, beautiful, real and picturesque…..LOVE IT!”
The birthplace of pizza
If Naples’ crowning glory is its world-famous pizza, the brightest jewel is the classic Margherita. It’s often the main reason people visit.
The pizza’s origins are said to have begun in a narrow alley deep in the city in 1889. Raffaele Esposito, the chef at Pizzeria Brandi, added simple toppings of basil, mozzarella and tomato to honour the Italian flag. Legend has it Esposito named his creation after Margherita of Savoy, then Queen of Italy.
Heads up though, you’ll have to queue for days for a slice at Pizzeria Brandi. And in all honesty, you’ll find pizzas just as tasty in all corners of the city.
A personal favourite, which also serves delicious gluten-free options, is a little joint called Pizzaioli Veraci. At €6 (£5) for a traditional Margherita, it’s a steal.
Most Neopolitans, including celebrity chef Gino D’Campo, will recommend this. In their eyes, the simpler, the better.
Naples: gateway to the Amalfi Coast
You’ll want to spend a few days exploring Naples and all it has to offer. But when the chaos gets too much, the Amalfi Coast is just a 35-minute ferry away. The average return fare for a foot passenger is €68 (£57).
Famed for its towering cliffs and sparkling blue bays, Amalfi is world’s away from the frenetic energy of its closest city. Here you’ll find golden sand, rustic trattorias and high-end boutiques along the main street of the town.
A controversial past
Though better known for dodgy politics and drug trafficking, the Camorra crime circle was also involved with illegal waste disposal, which sparked a public health crisis and €100 million in fines from Europe’s top court.
Italy’s former Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi tried to stop the dumping of toxic materials in the mid-2000s. But recession only exacerbated Naples’ waste management and unemployment issues.
Two decades later, Naples is on its way to being greener and cleaner. Though nights out make it look like an Italian Brighton, with beer cans and empty pizza boxes littering the street, it’s clear that locals are ready to make a change. On Saturday mornings, you’ll see volunteers cleaning up neighbourhoods; air pollution has also improved.
It’s now safe to swim in many of Naples’ public beaches, including Lido Mappatella, Bagno Elena, Bagno Sirena and La Rotonda Diaz.
A new dawn
Naples isn’t considered dangerous these days, but an enduring association with organised crime – notably the Camorra, an Italian Mafia-style criminal network – preserves its dark reputation.
Today, tourism is one of the largest sectors of Naples’ economy. In 2023 alone, the Campania region saw a record-breaking boost, with over 20 million visitors. And the most-visited destination was Naples, despite the region also encompassing the Instagram-famous Amalfi Coast.
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Two years before the COVID pandemic, Naples was the ninth most-visited Italian city. In 2024, it ranked third in Condé Nast’s prestigious roundup of the 12 best cities to visit in the country.
Still, Naples’ tourist numbers are markedly lower than other major Italian hotspots. For example, the capital Rome received a record 35 million visitors in 2023, while around 46 million people headed to the Tuscany region.
Sure, these places are pretty, but I love Naples’ true grit; it puts on a front for no one.
If hustle, bustle, and constant reminders that you are alive are what you’re looking for in an affordable city break, this Italian jewel ticks all the boxes.
Where to stay in Naples
Naples is very much a city break destination, with scores of Airbnb and Booking.com rentals available all year round. Vesuvio Apartment, a rustic building in the middle of town with unspoiled views of the volcano, has rooms from €130 (£108) per night.
Hotel-wise, there are plenty of quality choices to suit every budget, many with sea views. Villa Margherita offers rooms from €84 (£69), while Exe Majestic is a little steeper at €124 (£102) per night.
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