A spectacular sunset view of a massive lake in Northern Minnesota

Five days in Canada’s frozen ‘heartland’ changed my mind about snowy holidays


The snow covered JW Muskoka hotel in Ontario, Canada.
Five days in frozen wilderness is good for the soul (Picture: JW Marriott)

As I step onto the frozen lake, teeth chattering and surrounded by snow dusted wilderness, I wonder what I’ve gotten myself in for.

I’ve been talked around by our guide, Mauricio, who’s taken us for a ‘polar plunge’ in Algonquin Provincial Park in Ontario in January.

Best known as the home of Niagara Falls, Canada’s ‘heartland’ is not an obvious choice for a holiday in winter, when the mercury plunges to -15°C in some parts of the province.

But as traditional destinations push back against tourists, the ‘coolcation’ has become one of 2025’s hottest travel trends— destinations that offer a reprieve from stifling weather (and stifling crowds).

Tracing the last Ice Age

After a short rest at the four-star Sheraton Gateway Hotel at Toronto International Airport (£195 per night), my five-day trip begins at Algonquin Log Cabin.

Although temperatures outside are close to -15°C, the modest log cabin – which has five bedrooms and two shared bathrooms – is cosy, with a roaring fire and knotted rugs.

A map of Canada, focusing on Ontario and Algonquin National Park
Ontario, the province known as Canada’s heartland (Picture: Metro)

Bracing for the subzero chill, we leave the warm embrace of the cabin for a snowshoe hike into the forest.

It’s harder than it looks; the activity requires strapping spiked tennis racket-like shoes to our feet, and mastering several techniques to achieve ‘floatation’, where you stand on the snow without sinking.

But I eventually get the hang of digging the crampons into the ice, and we set off, traversing frozen lakes and treacherous bridges (we even hear a wolf howl along the way).

The park’s terrain is breathtaking, with rocky hills that were smoothed by glaciers as they moved through the area during the last Ice Age, 2.58 million to 11,700 years ago.

Stopping at a panoramic viewpoint on the side of a mountain, we sip mugs of warming tea, before tucking into a banquet of sticky date pudding, corn bread and bruschetta, served on a canoe paddle.

How to get to Ontario, Canada

Plenty of airlines operate direct flights from London to Toronto, the capital of Ontario province.

Air Canada offers return fares from Heathrow from £498 per person, while British Airways is more expensive at £604 per person.

Cheaper routes are available if you’re willing to endure a connection; Icelandair has round-trips from £331, with a layover in Reykjavik’s Keflavik Airport.

Taking the plunge in Algonquin

As the sun begins to set, we shed our thermals and venture into the snow in swimwear. From a ladder on the frozen lake, we descend one by one into the icy water. Mauricio explains the trick is to lower yourself slowly to ensure your body does not go into shock, controlling your breathing once you’re submerged.

It sounds clichéd, but I feel at peace in the mind-numbing depths. That said, I last a grand total of 30 seconds before jumping out.

To unwind, we make a treacherous run to the outdoor sauna, where a built-in fireplace restores the heat in our bones within minutes.

Warm camembert, crackers and wine help us to relax before bed, as we absorb a world very different to the frenzy of normal life.

Arrival at Algonquin log cabin.
Arriving at Algonquin Log Cabin was like something out of a movie (Picture: Jasper King)
Canada travel piece
Snowshoeing has a knack to it (Picture: Jasper King)

The next morning as the sun starts to rise over the glacial countryside, veteran husky owner Jake shows us how to drive a sled.

In pairs, one driving, one riding, we race the dogs for an hour to a soundtrack of barks. It is a memorable experience, provided you’re willing to endure the pungent smell of dog and constant howling.

Muskoka’s A-list wilderness

After three days, we leave the wilds of Algonquin for the comparable opulence that is the four-star JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka Resort & Spa (£171 per night).

Perched on a craggy hill, the hotel is surrounded by forest, lakes and the rocky geological formations that characterise the beauty of Muskoka. Perhaps this is why A-list celebrities like the Beckhams, Goldie Hawn and Steven Spielberg like to holiday here.

@torontoecoadventures

Snow lovers, this one’s for you! ❄️✨ Algonquin Park is about to turn into a winter wonderland with snow forecasted all next week! Just 3 hours from Toronto, it’s the perfect escape to hike, explore, and experience the magic of Ontario’s winters. 🌲 From frozen lakes to snow-covered trails, Algonquin in the snow is a sight you don’t want to miss. Who’s ready for a snowy adventure? 🌨️ Drop a ❄️ in the comments if you’re in! #WinterWonderland #AlgonquinPark #DiscoverOntario #NatureLovers #WinterAdventures SnowSeason”

♬ Hinoki Wood – Gia Margaret

The remoteness provides a sense of privacy and isolation that makes this upmarket part of Ontario appealing.

Undoubtedly the region is more popular in the summer, but there’s a surprising menu of winter activities on offer, including snowshoeing and ice skating as well as an ice bar where you can sit in -15°C and sip on a variety of different vodka beverages.

Daredevils might prefer snowmobiling. Clutching on to the driver, we accelerate from 0 to 60mph in a matter of seconds, the surroundings whizzing by in a blur.

Canada travel piece
Prepare for howling when you go husky riding (Picture: Jasper King)

Marriot guests can also try out fat biking, which does what it says on the tin: cycling with fat tires. Pedaling uphill towards the resort is a real workout, so a massage at the hotel’s HydroSpa is welcome. As well as the usual hot tub and sauna, there’s also an oxygen bar, salt room and massage chairs.

More Trending

For the final evening, we rug up in a private igloo, sipping wine as our chef whips up a feast of chicken, lamb and seabass over a roaring fire. Vegetarians beware, but this is serious cuisine.

As I stare into the coals, I think about how I can’t wait to return to Ontario. But only in the thickest of winter. 

Jasper King was a guest of Destination Ontario.

Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at webnews@metro.co.uk.

For more stories like this, check our news page.

HomedividerLifestyledividerTravel

We challenged Metro's cartoonist to go on a UK motorhome break — and draw his holiday

Channel: Travel Travel 2 days ago By Guy Venables
Jessica Lindsay sitting in a heart-shaped wooden structure in front of the sea in Egypt.

I never left my hotel in the ‘cradle of civilisation’ – but I’d do it again

Channel: Travel Travel March 16, 2025 By Jessica Lindsay

The Getaway

Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration.