If you went to Morocco and didn’t enjoy it, chances are, you went to Marrakech.
Call it a hot take, but motorbikes spinning through narrow alleyways, shopkeepers chattering, Google Maps going dark in the medina — the ‘Red City’ doesn’t exactly ease you in.
I adored Marrakech, but I understand why it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.
It’s good, then, that Morocco is magnificently diverse. From the Atlantic Coast to the golden dunes of the Sahara, its landscapes are varied, and so are its cities.
The North African country of some 38 million deserves to be explored beyond one viral destination. And, to immerse yourself without feeling overwhelmed, I recommend starting with Fez.
Unlike bustling Marrakech, the city nicknamed the ‘Athens of Africa’ has held onto much of the traditional culture that defines it. Today, it is the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, with none of the crowds that make its more popular counterpart feel suffocating.
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And with at least four direct flights from London every week, from as little as £27 one-way, it’s never been easier to visit the ancient tanneries, stunning architecture, and royal palaces that make this city so fascinating.
Day 1: Fez at a glance
Located in the northwest of the Atlas Mountains, the first thing to know about Fez is that it is divided into three sections. The best known is Fez el-Bali, or Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage site that dates back to the 13th century. It’s what this guide focuses on.
The 30-minute drive from nearby Saïss Airport cuts through Ville Nouvelle, where motorways lined with shady palm trees reveal a different side of the city.
The taxi drops me outside the western entrance of Fez el-Bali, the Blue Gate. Ornately decorated with azure and Islamic green tiles, already I’ve found something to marvel at.
As I enter, I glimpse traces of the Morocco that was, as well as the Morocco that is racing ever faster towards change.
The medina in Fez is the largest urban car-free zone on Earth, worlds away from the chaos of Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech. Coffee shops spill onto the square, with tourists and locals basking in the sun.
Sellers preside over trays of fragrant pistachio and almond croissants, and piles of traditional biscuits — feqqas, a type of Moroccan biscotti, and chebakya, golden sweets with sesame seeds, ground anise and cinnamon that are soaked in a mixture of honey and orange blossom water.
The atmosphere is alive, but not overwhelming.
Before I’m drawn in by the whispers of the traders, I beeline for Riad Mayfez, one of Fez’s top hotels and my home for the next few days.
Learning from my trip to Marrakech, I again chose to stay in a traditional riad with a garden and courtyard.
Behind an imposing wooden entranceway just a 10-minute walk from the Blue Gate is a sanctuary of silence, a striking contrast to the spirited sounds that fill the medina.
I feel a sense of the old Morocco, something I’ve previously only read about in books. With only seven suites, a swimming pool in the garden, a games room with a billiards table and chess set, I understand why this five-star riad is usually booked out weeks in advance.
Owner Dominique is proud of rebuilding the riad, and describes it as ‘real Moroccan luxury.’ I have to agree. The real treasure at Mayfez is not the vintage furniture and antiques, all personally chosen by Dominique, or the view from its rooftop to the Marinid Tombs on the outskirts of Fez. It’s the care that staff take to ensure your stay is perfect.
Head butler Mohamed welcomes me with a customary pot of Moroccan mint tea and a tray of fresh biscuits.
He has worked at the riad for more than six years. ‘When you love what you do, it is easy to stay in the same place at the same building for a long time,’ he says.
Day 2: Exploring the medina
Years have passed since I was last woken by the sharp, guttural crowing of a rooster. Fez slowly comes to, and so do I.
The streets are mostly empty and shops are still shut, but I can hear life bubbling behind the heavy stone walls of the medina.
I make my way to Chouara Tannery, the largest and one of the oldest in the city, dating back to the beginning of the 9th century.
Right from the riad, through a tunnel, then a left, then a wall. Google Maps is not the most accurate here, but it’s part of the adventure.
I smell the tannery before I see it. Weak stomachs beware; I regret not accepting the mint leaves generously offered by the owners.
This is where animal skins are prepared the old-fashioned way: dunked in limestone vats that hold a cornucopia of coloured dyes.
The skins are processed by soaking in a mixture of pigeon poop and donkey urine, before they are hand-beaten to a pulp. It is a fascinating but toxic process that can cause serious health issues for tanners.
A few minutes from the Chouara Tannery is the Mosque and University of al-Qarawiyyin, one of the leading spiritual centres of the Islamic Golden Age. It remains so today, and is widely recognised as the oldest continuously operating university in the world.
Another nearby landmark is the Al-Attarine Madrasa, a treasure trove of Islamic art and architecture. Located next to the spice and perfume market that gives it its name, this 14th-century Quranic school is home to exquisite woodcarvings.
I feel centuries of history on every corner.
Day 3: Getting lost in the souk
My day starts with a short hike to the Marinid Tombs, perched on a hill outside the city walls. The journey is not exactly picturesque – it follows the side of a motorway – but the view from the top is not to be missed.
The tombs were a royal necropolis for the Marinid dynasty which ruled over Morocco from the 13th to the 15th century. Today, they are a popular vantage point to see the historic city in all its glory.
Back in the medina, I rest my weary feet at Abdullah Thé & Café, a traditional teahouse hidden in a narrow alleyway. Owner Abdullah is 81 and has been running the joint since 1969.
The rest of the day is spent wandering the souk. Each area specialises in a trade, and navigating them feels like stepping into a living museum of traditional craftsmanship.
Place Seffarine sells brass and copperware; Souk el Henna is for argan oil, perfumes, black soap and rosewater; the area around Chouara Tannery is all about apparel, from leather slippers (babouches) to bags and jackets; Souk el Attarine is famous for colourful mounds of spices, dried herbs, preserved lemons, olives and dates.
I lose track of time before I remember with panic that I’ve booked a dinner class at the Fez Cooking School at Palais Amani. It is one of my favourite activities in a new city, and the class costs £55 on GetYourGuide.
I’m handed an apron and a knife too large for my liking. But chef Oussama and kitchen coordinator Loubna are encouraging and patient as I mince a basket full of vegetables.
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Over the course of 90 minutes, I prepare a smoky tajine and milk pastilla, a Moroccan pastry with crème anglaise and fresh fruit. I am proud but Oussama cannot hide how unimpressed he is with my skills. We all have a good laugh as he grimaces at my pastilla.
I finish the evening with a cocktail on the rooftop at Riad Mayfez, looking forward to being woken up by the rooster one last time before leaving for London.
A day trip to Morocco's 'blue diamond'
If you have a day to spare, a trip to the northwest city of Chefchaouen in the Rif Mountains should be on your itinerary (from £17 with GetYourGuide).
From Fez, it takes just under four hours to reach the mountainous area, known for its striking, blue-washed buildings.
Similarly to Fez, Chefchaouen is home to myriad leather and weaving workshops, which line its steep lanes. The city is small enough that it can be seen in one afternoon.
There are several theories as to why so many buildings are blue, something which is mandated by the government here. One story – and the one I choose to believe – says that locals believe that the blue shades help keep their homes cool during the hot summer months.
It is a tradition dating back to at least the 15th century, and its distinctiveness has kept the flow of tourism steady here over the years.
Gergana was a guest of Riad Mayfez. Prices for upcoming dates start at around £257 depending on availability. One-way flights from London to Fez begin from £27 with Ryanair.
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