I’m in the corner of a restaurant and chaos is everywhere. The interior is mind-bending, with vintage neon signs, golden dragons, and imposing iron gates. The atmosphere is electric.
Over the past few minutes, six enormous sharing plates have been hoisted onto our table. After mentally totting up the price, I’m stunned to realise that the feast before me cost only £88.
I struggle to maintain my manners as steam wafts from the main dish – a sumptuous lobster dripping in sweet, sticky sauce.
Conversation is dead to me. I’m ready to eat.
I am, of course, in Hong Kong, a vibrant city guaranteed to assault your senses in the most incredible ways. From world-famous street food to some of the friendliest people on Earth, the place known as Asia’s culinary capital is every traveller’s dream.
And, as tourism finally recovers from the pandemic – in 2024, 44.5 million international travellers visited, up 40% from the previous year – there’s never been a more exciting time to visit this gourmet paradise.
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First impressions
After a 13-hour flight, I’m grateful to reach our first hotel, the 4* Dorsett Wan Chai. It’s a steal, with rates starting from HK$700 (£69) per night. Slap bang between the thriving business and entertainment districts of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, the surrounding area is packed with markets and trendy shops.
As I open the door to my room, I feel like the main character in a rom-com. I beeline for the king-size bed and perform a head-first dive before I’m distracted by the view through my floor-to-ceiling window: futuristic skyscrapers cheek by jowl with 19th-century buildings.
I can also see the Happy Valley racecourse, which I’m told is the ultimate mid-week nightlife destination. With a HK$10 (99p) admission fee, locals and holidaymakers alike gather for ‘Happy Wednesday,’ a bizarre smorgasbord of horse racing, entertainment, and great food and drink.
The hotel is so inviting, you’d be forgiven for jumping between the sheets,ordering room service, and watching the world go by. But this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, so I muster the energy to explore Hong Kong at night and hop on the free five-minute hotel shuttle bus into Central.
Enveloped by bright lights and busy diners, I’m struck by how safe I feel in this city of 7.5 million people. As a woman, travelling comes with a side of caution; constantly checking your bag and being wary of who’s around you.
But here, I feel free to absorb every sound, sight and smell. It’s liberating.
A culinary haven
It’s no secret that Hong Kong is a food lover’s paradise. The cuisine is legendary, with everything from traditional Cantonese grub spots to Michelin-star fine dining, where chefs fuse local products and flavours with international influences. Old-school street food is big business here.
During a visit to Cheung Chau Island, 10km southwest of Hong Kong Island, where locals retreat during summer, I head to one of the vendors on the waterfront.
Gazing at multicoloured wooden boats bobbing on the water, I inhale a sweet egg tart. Every bite is heavenly, from the buttery pastry to the creamy custard centre, all for HK$12.5 (£1.24). Back in Central, I see a crowd queuing for the same dessert at the viral Bakehouse. Once a ‘hidden gem,’ TikTok has made the bakery a Hong Kong staple.
Still savouring the tart, I rock up to Cafe Bau in Wan Chai, a farm-to-table concept restaurant headed up by Michelin-starred chef, Alvin Leung.
Like every dining experience so far, I’m astounded by the sheer volume of food. As I take on an eight-course tasting menu, devouring everything from pork knuckle to spiny lobster, I feel like I’m on Man v. Food. Though my stomach is full, my tastebuds insist I finish every bite. It might be the only time I try it, after all, as the set menu is HK$1,288 (£128.48) per person.
For dessert, I make a pitstop at Bar Leone, a moodily lit, vibey joint voted the best bar in Asia in 2024. I try a velvety Olive Oil Sour (HK$150, £14.90) paired with garlicky olives. If there’s one thing you won’t be in Hong Kong, it’s peckish.
Metro's #1 Hong Kong hack
Take a ferry from Central Pier to Cheung Chau Island. The journey is 30 minutes and costs HK$23.20 (£2.31). I use an Octopus Card to pay – Hong Kong’s reusable, contactless smart card. Like an Oyster with extra features (you can use for dining, entertainment, and shopping), top up your card with money and you’re good to go.
A changing cityscape
Hong Kong is Asia’s biggest arts hub. Every March, the city is transformed into an immersive canvas. Artists and art enthusiasts flock here from around the world, as installations, exhibitions and performances take over.
Street art is a huge part of creative culture in Hong Kong, and there’s no getting away from the East and West influence. (Hong Kong was under a controversial 156-year British rule before transferring to China in 1997.)
On every corner, Instagrammable murals are splashed across buildings, both authorised and illegal.
During a walking tour with Wanderlust Walks, our guide Alex weaves us through the bustling Central and Sheung Wan, sharing ‘behind-the-walls’ stories. Many highlight the social issues that plague Hong Kong.
One local guerilla artist, Go Hung, creates street installations from recycled materials. His famous nest series, where he places baskets in trees with the words ‘rent high’ in colourful fonts, reflects the housing crisis and rocketing property prices in the city.
An affordable long-haul
For my final two nights, I’m in the luxe 5* Dorsett Kai Tak. While Hong Kong’s affordability varies depending on where you stay, accommodation rates are generally moderate.
After hearing about the city’s swanky rooftop bars and infinity pools, I’m surprised to learn that my room here is only HK$973 (£96.79) per night.
Opposite the hotel is Kai Tak Sports Park, Hong Kong’s largest sports venue. As I sip my morning coffee, I watch athletes sprinting around the track; my own private Olympics.
The park doubles as a major entertainment centre and concert space, making it the perfect place to stay if you’ve got a ticket to an event.
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The Kai Tak area also has an abundance of karaoke bars. I have the time of my life in a tiny haunt five minutes from my hotel, belting Amy Winehouse and sipping Blue Girl, the local Hong Kong beer. Karaoke is free, and a sharing bucket of beer (six 330ml bottles) is HK$180 (£17.88).
As it’s time to leave, I’m heartbroken I was only able to scratch the surface of this magical place. From the friendliest people to the mouthwatering food, I now have a Hong Kong-shaped hole in my heart.
How to get to Hong Kong and best time to go
Hong Kong’s shoulder seasons fall in March to early May and September to early October. Temperatures range between 21°C and 28°C. As a destination where you’re more likely to follow an itinerary than sunbathe, these months provide the perfect heat – and fewer tourists – to experience the best of Hong Kong. Summer is notoriously sticky and humid, often reaching 31°C.
We fly with Finnair from London Heathrow to Helsinki and onto Hong Kong. Return economy fares start from £532. Seats in the new award-winning business class cabin start from £2,025. As a business class newbie, I’m like a child in a sweet shop, in awe of the revolutionary non-recline seat.
I switch Emilia Perez on my 18-inch screen, enjoy multiple champagnes and a pesto pasta before my eyes feel heavy. But not to worry, I activate the button that transforms my comfy armchair into a bed, slip on my eye mask, and fall into a deep slumber. The new mood lighting (which combats the effects of jetlag) is a gift, while the ‘Do Not Disturb’ light outside my suite lets the friendly cabin crew know I’m out for the count.
Sophie-May Williams was a guest of Hong Kong Tourism Board and Finn Air.
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